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Headings: Pond construction. Filtration, water quality, green water. Fish. Temporary fish homes. Pumps. Wild & natural ponds. Pond predators. Miscellaneous. Frogs & toads. Pond plants.
Pond construction
Burrjust, UK.
Q. I am building a pond 1.5m deep 2m long 3m wide I am going to be using a liner but the hole is dug but I have not built a concrete collar. What is its purpose and is it really necessary?
A. A concrete collar stops the edge of the opening from crumbling away (eroding). If your pond has gently sloping sides you won't need it, but if you plan to put an edging like paving or rocks their weight will compress and the edging dirt will fall behind the liner. My advice would be spend a little extra time now making a collar rather than always have problems later. To make a collar, dig a trench about 12" deep 12" wide. Put bits of stick 6" out of the bottom of the trenchthey are level at the top all round the proposed pond and put the concrete level with the top of the sticks.
Phil Kingscott, Lincolnshire,
Q. Hi, My wife and I are part way through construction on a 6500 gallon pond. We are attempting to construct a block built pond that ultimately will be fibreglassed. The problem we have is we have had the slab poured and the inner wall has been constructed, the other day we had an almighty thunderstorm and since then water has been seeping in through the block. How do we stop the water coming in?????
A. Hi Phil, The only way I know is to render the outside of the block work with waterproof cement. Mix: 2 to 1 (2 parts coarse sharp washed sand to 1 part cement) with a waterproof additive. Bye for now, B
E Hawkins, UK, April
Q. Please can you help? We have a very large copper "cauldron" which we lugged back from France with the intention of making it a garden water feature with one or two goldfish and a pygmy water lily. However we are now being told that copper is poisonous to goldfish. Is there anything we could coat the copper interior with to make it safe or is lining it the only option? It would be difficult to do this neatly with butyl - is there anything lighter and more pliable that would be suitable. We have thought of putting a rubber or plastic container inside the cauldron but can find nothing large enough - 26" across the top and 18" deep. We should be most grateful for any advice you could give.
A. There is a product on the market called G4 it is used for painting cement or brick ponds. It comes in black or clear. As long as you rough-up the surface of the copper it should work. If you use the clear you will still see the copper. Bye for now, Brian.
Adrian, St Neots, Cambridgeshire
Q. I am in the process of building a raised brick pond with a waterfall. I would like to attach something to the lip of the waterfall to stop the water coming into direct contact with the brick edge. I have been told that a copper sleeve could be used for this, is this correct and if so, where can I get these from?
A. Copper is not good for fish. Can I suggest you use brass or slate (you canany joints with waterproof cement then use G4?
Rob, UK, July
Q. Last Summer I had a pond built 12’ x 6’ x 3’ with a 1’ high surrounding wall. I was told at the time that rainfall and evaporation would balance each other out. After a Summer of topping up and a Winter of baling out I now know this not to be the case. I need to fit an overflow but don’t want to drill a hole in a sidewall. Would you have any suggestions as to how I can achieve this?
A.. Apart from fitting a pump with a float switch and a supply with a ballcock which is "over the top". Your best bet is to drill a hole in the side and don't rely on mechanical things.
Matt, UK, January
Q. Hope you can help. I am building a large pond about 60 feet by 30 feet and 7 feet deep. I can't afford a fancy liner. I've heard that silage sheet used by farmers to line silage and slurry pits is probably ok as long as its UV stable. This sheet comes in huge sizes and is much cheaper than butyl etc. BUT I'm not sure and don't want problems to emerge, at least in the short term. The site is excavated and I've put down Teram (the geotextile fabric used under gravel drives) to form a stable base over the ground. I will then cover this with sand and then put the liner over the sand. I then plan to cover the liner with another layer of Teram and then finally a layer of sand. Please can someone tell me if this makes sense, as I've never done this before? Please can someone advise on suitability of silage sheet? Any tips and advice please as I can't find anyone to help.
A. I don't know much about silage sheet. I would not recommend it without finding out if it were UV protected, or more importantly if it will leach chemicals into the water. I.e. Leave water standing in a cheap rubber bucket and you will find after a few weeks an oily scum on the water. Butyl is guaranteed for at least 25 years. It is not worth the risk especially if you are planning to put in nice plants and good quality fish. It's not the short term you should be worrying about. It's the long term. Re underlay: Put sand in first then the underlay finally the liner on the top of the underlay. Have you thought about filtration yet? I suggest if you are keeping koi you have bottom drains (2), supplying a gravity fed multi-bay filter.
Mark Brown, Farnham
Q. Will I be able to filter a pond that has a soil base above the liner?
A. Yes. You will need a box filter outside your pond, with pump supplying pond water to it. The pump should be sat on bricks to keep it about 6" off the bottom of your pond. On the inlet side of the pump fit a large foam block 9"X9" available from aquatic outlets OR fit a pipe with a right angle bend going upwards with several ¼"in it (make it yourself) pipe should be plastic waste pipe.
Mike, UK
Q. I like your site, Could you help me, I am building a pond 20ft x 15 ft x 3ft deep in clay soil what’s the best way to dig it out? I can’t get large equipment into my garden so is a spade the only way and how long do you think it would take two people? Thanks Mike
A. How long is a piece of string? My pond was dug out of chalk, same size but 6ft deep with a bottom drain. It was all done by hand using spades, barrows and skips. The wheelbarrows had to be pushed 120 feet uphill. It took 2 healthy men 3 months from start to putting the fish in, working weekends & evenings. Good luck.
Anne Reece,
Q. Hello. I hope you can help. I have a small pond (about 400 litres). Mistakenly, I placed a hosta on one of the ledges and as the pump is quite powerful it swirled the soil around the pool and the water became quite murky. I have removed the hosta and have been doing partial water changes for several weeks, but now I have a problem with algae and the water is quite green. This weekend I have finally got rid of all the soil from the bottom of the pond and done a 50 percent water change. I have 2 goldfish in there - one is about 6 years old. Since my mistake with the hosta I have been reading about algae and the causes. I think the problem was nutrients from the soil. Also the pond has no growing plants in now, just some floating weed that I obtain from a nearby pond. It has not got much shade either, although it is not in bright sunlight. I understand that introducing plants into the water will combat the algae, but as it approaching autumn I am concerned that they will just die off. Although I'm not worried too much about the aesthetics of the pond at this stage, my main worry is about the fish and I'm not really sure what to do for the best. Should I treat the algae with a weak dose of a proprietary brand of copper sulphate based treatment - or will the algae just die off naturally as winter approaches? Will it harm the fish? Should I continue to feed the fish? At the minute I'm trying to control the amount of light to the pond by shading it with 3 large umbrellas. I'm also keeping the pump running for 16 hours a day to oxygenate the water. I've read so much stuff about algae and fish that I'm quite confused as to what to do for the best. Could you help with some short-term advice? Come next spring I thought of putting some water lilies in to offer shade and use up some of the nutrients in the water but what's best for the fish in the meantime? I would really appreciate some advice please. Thanks Anne
A. Hi Anne, Algae is common in ponds with no shade. It needs sunlight & nutriments to grow. By introducing new water you have given it more nutriments to feed off. Put a potted plant on the south side, to overhang your pond (replacing the umbrellas). This will give shade and a little cover for your fish. Next spring introduce plants. Don’t treat the water; let nature take its course. If you have a filter it should be on all the time. If you pump is just for air (fountain, Waterfall) It needs to be on in the afternoon and at night at least. Brian
Les Littleton, Romford,
Q. I have recently moved into a new property whereupon I have inherited a fish pond. I haven’t the first idea on pond keeping so; a bit of advice would be greatly appreciated. The pond measures approximately 6' x 3' and contains 9 goldfish. It has a Fluval filter. No plants. My first problem is this. How do you get the pond to look clear? Mine is very green, you can only see the fish when they are nearer the surface.
Secondly. The level of the water keeps going down. This only happens when I have the pump running. As soon as I switch it off, it stays the same level. As I said before, your help would be greatly appreciated.
A. Hi Les. You need plants to take the nitrates out of the water as well as shading from the sun. A water lily, some oxygenating plants and lots of marginal plants. Plus an ultra violate clarifier - 8w should be big enough. Sounds like a leak between the pump and the filter or the filter and the pond. Check all the pipe-work and look for damp areas on the ground as an indicator. Good luck.
Trevor, UK,
Q. Hi, I wonder if you can help me. I have a pond approx. 4000 gallons, filtration system is 1 x fishmate 30000 and 2 x hoselock ecomax 9000 with 2 x hoselock 1500 titan pumps. This system keeps the water reasonable clear but we suffer from a white froth on the surface of the pond which is produced by the filter outlets which bubble constantly regardless of where the filter outlet is. Have you any idea of what could be causing this and how I should deal with it. Thank you.
A. Because the water is rich with oxygen where the waterfall is, a form of live bacteria grows. Similar to the foam that comes ashore after a storm at sea. There are several products on the market (foam away, No foam) all are harmless to fish and plants. Try discharging the water below the pond's surface. This should reduce the air intake. Finally check out pond skimmers. I use one just for this sort of reason; it is also useful if you have tree blossom problems. Bye for now
Kim Shaw, UK,
Q. how to deal with blanket weed and what causes it
A. Hi Kim Blanket weed is caused through nutrients in the water, which the sun encourages lower life forms to grow. Algae being one of the lowest (blanket weed and green water). Partly shade the pond with plants or shrubs, grow fast growing marginal plants such as watercress or mimulus. Remove blanket weed by raking it out or putting a stick in and twisting it around. Make sure there isn't too much debris on the bottom of your pond. No easy cure, If I had one I'd be a rich man.
Darrel Callanan, Wigan, Lancs.,
Q. Hello, I recently lost a lot of water from my pond. On investigation I found the bio-filter was blocked and water was escaping out of the top. After clearing this I changed my pump (better pump from a previous pond) but am having a lot of trouble with the pump filter keep getting blocked and so starving the supply of water. Is there any way I can cure this problem because at present I am cleaning the foam filter every 30 mins or so.
A. Hi Darrel. How big is your pond (gallons/lts)? What is it stocked with and how many? Size of pump (gals/lts)?
Q. Hello, Not sure of the size in gallons/litres. The pond itself is about 5' by 5' and about 2' deep. I have 2 koi (12") 2 ghost koi (5") 4 4" goldfish. pump= 300 galls per hour. thanks for the reply, hope to hear from you soon. Darrel.
A. Hi Darrel. Your pond is 300 gallons approx. As koi are messy feeders, they produce more waste than other fish. Therefore you will need a larger filter. I would have a filter with brushes first, then something like flowcore & foam. Bye for now, Brian.
David Veloz, Cardiff,
Q. Hi, hope you can help me with a problem I have with my pond. I have a pond of about 350 gals in Cardiff, with several Koi, shubunkins, comets and gold fish in, all successfully have lasted there first winter. The problem is the green water (algae). I have had the pump on through the filter with the UV light on, new lamp bought this year, for about two weeks and still cannot clear the water. The water quality is ok with a PH of 8,Ammonia of 0, Nitrite of 0 and Nitrate reading 25, I have been feeding them, but only small amounts that is consumed within 5 minutes. I am now using Interpet Green Away to clear the pond, it has been suggested to me that I need to switch off the UV lamp for a couple of days for the chemicals to work, but cannot find any mention of this in the Green Away information sheet. It seems strange as the lamp is supposed to clear the water, but I am being told to switch the lamp off even though only for two days. Have you any advice on how to progress? Thanks for any advice you may offer from a enthusiastic pond keeper, but very inexperienced and learning all the time....
A. It is a slandered procedure to turn the UV off when treating a pond, as it can have an effect on some medications. Regarding using Greenaway: I would leave the UV on as it is not a medication. Are you suffering from alga, or is there just suspended matter in the water? If the water is green then it is alga.
All ponds go green in the spring. When the plants get going next month they will take the nitrates that the alga needs. Green water is good for fish as long as it is short lived.
Q. Thanks for your reply, I have kept the lamp on and now seems to be clearing, certainly the two small lilies I have are sprouting well. Now it seems that I do have suspended matter in the pond which I thought the filter would clear via the pump. Do I need to do anything else to clear this, when I can see the bottom I intend to siphon out the silt form the bottom, but need to be able to see first where I am siphoning...
A. In the Pond Club we use a product called Aquaplanton. It not only helps to settle suspended matter, but digests silt. For more info in this product, do a search for it on the web. It works for us.
John Challis, Eastbourne,
Q. Can you recommend someone who cleans ponds? I have a small pond that needs a cleaning out and the pump restarting etc. Obviously prepared to pay the going rate. Live in Willingdon. Any suggestions very welcome.
A. Eastbourne Pond Club have a pond vac available to members, ideal for sucking up material from the bottom of ponds
John Horn, UK,
Q. I have a pond 10ft x 5ft which holds 17 fish. It has been established for 18 months. Two days ago I emptied and cleaned the pond because it was very dirty although the water was clear there was a lot of soil and leaves etc which needed to be removed. I refilled the pond using a tap safe water treatment to the instructions. Since doing this the water has become cloudy and milky in appearance. Is there anything I can do to help the situation the fish seem O. K. at the moment.
A. Hi John. You don't need to empty your pond just because it is dirty. It will do more harm than good, as it takes several years for pond water to fully mature. You have a pump and filter to remove sediment (soil) and a net will remove leaves. There are several sludge clearing products on the market. Back to your question - I would contact the manufactures to see if this is normal or if they have heard of this before.
Bye for now, Brian.
Connie, UK,
Q. I was just in your site reading on algae.Were can I get this stuff called ultra violet sterlizer? I would really like to try it because my pond is very bad with algae.
A. An ultra violet sterilizer is not stuff it is a special light unit that connects to the mains electricity. You can get it from most aquatic shops or garden centres that sell fish etc. They cost from £40 to £ 150 depending on your pond size. The unit has to be fitted to the water pipe to your filter.
David, Cardiff,
Q. I got your email address from your website http://www.gardenpondclub.co.uk/, I live in Cardiff and built myself a 6 X4.5 X 3 ft pond last year and have a few fish in it. For the last month I am having extreme trouble controlling my water quality. After talking to my local "World of water" dealer, I have managed to control my Ammonia and Nitrite by restarting the biological filter using BioStart, but my Nitrate level is high and I have lost one Koi and another is very stressed (when still, tail higher than the head). How can I reduce my Nitrate, or is this not the problem… any advice would be immensely welcome...
A. Nitrate is not as harmful as ammonia or nitrite & is controlled by lots of plants. I.e. watercress, mimulus, not too many oxygenates though. Re the ammonia problem - Is your filter big enough? Is the water going through too fast? Water needs to have dwell time in a filter to allow bacteria to grow. Don't clean your filter unless it starts to block up. Don't change your pond water, just top it up. Are you providing shade?
Teresa, Durham,
Q. My fish are not eating and they are round the waterfall a lot, they are not gasping for air. I have a mixture of fish - Big Koi Carp also Gold fish - Pond size in litres 8000
A. From what you have told me - it sounds like lack of air. Fish will gasp if they have a gill problem. Try to agitate the water more or fit an air pump.
Chris, UK,
Q. I have a pond containing koi which holds approximately six hundred gallons. I have a green genie 3000 filter a 25 watt UV, and a fishmate 2000 pump. The problem is green water, and endless blanket weed. I have been told that the water could be pumped through the UV too quickly to have any effect. So I have slowed the flow down. But this makes no difference. When we have a few days of no, or little sun the pond does clear to a depth of about a foot (The pond is three and a half feet deep at its deepest point.) But once there are a couple of very sunny days, my pond looks more like green pea soup. Please advise.
A. Your pond of 600 gallons is a bit too small for koi unless you only keep small koi. Koi produce a lot of waste (ammonia). You need a good filter system that in turn will increase nitrate levels in the water, which causes green water or blanket weed. The "CURE"(hopefully): Reduce feeding, increase plants into the water, reduce sunlight on water's surface, and don’t change water just top up. Keep the water going slowly through the filter (dwell time).
Elizabeth, UK,
Q. I have just been reading your web site with great interest and hope maybe you could just help me with my problem. Without having any experience whatsoever, last year I decided I would like a fish pond. My friend who has had a pond for some time now, said she would 'keep me right', so the pond was dug and completed and in went 10 goldfish. Although small (approx 80"long x 44"wide, 20"deep I thought it was wonderful. A Triden Otter 1250 pump (larger than needed) plus a Green Genie filter were purchased and all was well, apart from the pump filter is always, always clogged up with algae, so much so, that after 2 or 3 days the UV filter is literally only trickling out and so it goes on and on. I have added Algorem to the water, bought barley straw packs and still there is no improvement. I have also talked to Bradshaws who supplied the pump and filter but unfortunately the don't have the answer to my problem. The water appears to be crystal clear on re-entry into the pond, but I have to say, there does seem to be a covering of algae to both the sides and bottom of the pond. Perhaps with your vast knowledge, you may have come across this problem before, so its fingers crossed that you may be able to suggest something to rectify this very annoying problem. By the way the fish appear to be extremely happy (I hope)
A. As your pond water is not green, it sounds as if you are suffering with blanket weed. This is like long stringy green cotton wool. There is no easy cure, even chemicals aren't always successful. To improve the situation I suggest you cut back on the feeding by half, try shading part of the waters surface and remove as much of the BW by hand or by putting a stick in and twisting it around.
Q. Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my email. My friend who I mentioned in my first email to you says its definitely not blanket week (she has this problem herself). This afternoon, after returning from shopping the filter has stopped working again (not even the proverbial trickle!) and due solely to the filter on the pump being clogged and I mean clogged. I also think the water is turning greener by the day. It has been suggested that I change the UV bulb in the Green Genie but having only purchased it last year, I have to say, I thought it would have lasted longer than this, especially as it was turned off during the winter. So as they only cost a few pounds I am thinking about giving it a go. Do you think the pump and Green Genie are up to the job, so to speak or should I be looking to purchase something bigger and better? According to the Bradshaws catalogue, the green genie filter had won some award for crystal clear water and of course me being a 'novice' I thought they wouldn't have dared make a statement like that, if it wasn't true. However, I'll plod on and try not to lose heart or indeed give up as it does make a very attractive feature at the bottom of the garden, especially at dusk when the lights come on. Thank you so much for taking the time to advise me, it is very much appreciated.
A. It sounds like your pre filter to your pump which is being blocked? Raise the pump off the bottom of the pond and sit it on a house brick so that the pump sits 3 to 4 inches off the bottom of the pond. Buy a pre strainer foam block to go over the inlet to your pump. This is a block of foam about 6" square. You will not need to clean the foam block so often and it will stop the pump from blocking so often.
Patricia, UK,
Q. hello I have just found your page and hope you can help me. we have quite a large pond which for the last two years has been virtually trouble free. this year though it is very murky and has a pinky brown sort of scum. the fish seem fine. I have tested the water .the ph seems ok as do the nitrate levels but the ammonia test did not match anything on the colour chart hope you can advise
A. Is your pond water being agitated. I mean with a filter return, fountain, stream or air bubbles? If not it might be a form of blue- green algae - which can be harmful. If your pond water is moving, then it might be a form of plant plankton, which is ok and will go in time. Some green algae's can be a brownish colour. Re the ammonia test - there should be no readings for ammonia at this time of the year. If there is there is something wrong with your filter (to small, needs cleaning).
Ron, UK,
Q. I have a garden pond around 4500 litres. It has been fully running for around 2 weeks now with a green genie 12000 filter and a maximus submerged pump which also run a fountain. I have started the dechlorinater and the Bio filter start. There are a few goldfish and a couple of koi. For the first two weeks I have had the UV light off as there was no green water and I wanted to colonise the filter. Having checked the filter there is no colonisation as yet. The weather has been extremely hot here and all of a sudden the water is starting to look slightly green. The pond liner has what looks like a thin coating of green something. I put a small tench in the pond from another pond a few days ago and it has died. The other fish seem fine. I have decided that I must turn the UV on now and have slowed the flow rate to give it more time under the light. Should the water be crystal clear and can I expect the filter//pump to crystal it as the manufacturers say?? Any ideas on why the tench died and the others seem OK, water quality too good for tench? I have the top of the pond paved and have used G4 sealer across the cement but not the stone. The problems seem to have occurred when the first rainfall has started. Should the pond liner be really clean (no green).
A. No pond water is crystal clear at this time of the year. The green layer on your liner is algae building up and is normal. Re your dead tench - did you make sure the water properties were the same in both ponds? I.E. pH, temperature, nitrite & ammonia levels. If they were the same in both ponds it could have been the shock of being moved that killed your fish.
Nigel, UK,
Q. Hi, when cleaning my filter this week I noticed a lot of small red worms in the mesh, I was wondering if they are anything that I should be worried about.
A. Not at all – red worms are beneficial to breaking down the harmful material in the filter.
Sheleen, Southampton,
Q. May I first congratulate you on the very best site of this genre that I have come across ~ and I have searched through many trying to find some answers to questions. Although your site holds much information, I cannot find the answer to some questions, which I'm hoping you'll now be able to help me with? I first built a pond about eight years ago just for general wildlife. Four years ago my husband and I enlarged the pond and I bought several koi (Israeli ~ varying colours) over a period of days from a stockist I trust completely. The fish grew rapidly, and I discovered their enjoyment of eating many pond plants to my cost! ha ha. Two years ago, we decided that the pond needed a little 'sorting' with steeper sides so that the local cats wouldn't be so curious. Once again, luck was on our side and nothing seems wrong ~ the fish are growing well ~ and the three goldfish we added multiplied to over thirty in number! I may even have three little koi that I didn't buy swimming around. The frogs are still in abundance along with quite a lot of other insects that enjoy my pond as much as I do. As you may well have guessed by now, much of what my husband and I have done, with regards to the pond and the koi, was guesswork and our success has been down to luck only (as well as healthy fish to start off with). My enthusiasm for the pond and my fish has rubbed off on some friends, and many goldfish have been usurped into their newly-built ponds to grow and multiply. Due to this growing number of 'pond enthusiasts', I have been taking a few notes about my own pond and fish. This is where my queries come from (finally!). We have a 'weed' that grows around the edges and bottom of the pond ~ I call it 'mermaids hair' as that is what my mum-in-law called it too. I have to rip a lot of it up every few months, to keep it from becoming too overgrown. Can you tell me what it is, and whether I should let it grow in the pond? (the frogs seem to like it a lot). It covers everything ~ pipes, stones, and causes blockages daily in the pump which have to be sorted. (we have a pump and filter separate system to keep the pond as clean as possible).
A. Re your koi with no dorsal fin - no problem for the fish. I will have adapted to the change almost immediately. The only way a fin can be affected is either physical and you would have noticed the tear, or if there was a disease called fin rot in your pond (the fins gradually get eaten away over several weeks) it is a form of fungal infection and will affect several fins and often several fish. It might be your fish was born without a fin - not unusual. She sounds to be pregnant if she is swimming slightly lop-sided.
Anne Cross,
Q1. In the last two days, my pond has developed a bright green, almost emerald, type of algae. Also there is an oily substance on the surface of the water. I have not added anything to the pond, it is just as it is normally. Can you please throw any light on this and give me some advice please
Q2. Many thanks for your comments on the state of the water. I have noted your advice and it could be decaying water lilies as we have a few plants on the pond. Also I have the same oily green on top of the water butt which I noticed today. Does the UVs take any nutrients out of the water and does it harm wildlife?
A1. The Bright green is alga and the best way to clear it is with a UVs (Ultra Violet steriliser). Of coerce you must have a filter and pump. Otherwise there chemicals out there that will do the job. Re the oily look on the surface of your water - If a heron has been in your pond it leaves an oil residue in the water. This comes from its legs and attracts fish. Decaying water lilies also give out oil normally as the leaves turn yellow/brown.
A2. Re UV: NO to both questions. Most of our Club members useand I haven't herd any complaints yet - except when their bulb expires and they go back to green water. The UV bulbs usually need replacing after 1 year as they loose their effectiveness over time.
Luke,
Q. We have had some trouble with our ponds, and took advice from this man , who after finding out from many sources , he turned out to be a con man and with his methods wiped out our two ponds leaving us with 2 gold fish and one tench out of 80 koi goldfish carp tench and roach, so as you can see it hurt a little, any way , after finding out about this man I decided to go with my own instincts and do it my self, now touch wood things seem to have settled down, I have introduced 10 2 to 3 inch carp and 10 1 to 2 inch gold fish, as yet after 2 weeks they are all still alive and looking very well, in fact I'm sure they have grown a little ( could be wish full thinking ), the nitrite level is minimal and ammonia is zero oxygen level is spot on and no chlorine is visible but for some reason my ph has gone odd, I have been told it should be between 7 to 8 but I have noticed over the last 2 days it has risen to 8.5 now like I said its probably easy to sort but with all the problems we have had I am being a bit over sensitive, how do I bring it back down, is it a simple case of a slight water change as our water comes in at 7 to 7.5 or is there a ph adjust kit I can buy?
A. As your filter establishes it produces nitrate and this in turn encourages alga to grow. If your are using a UV it is destroying this alga and as it dies it will raze the pH of your pond water. pH is not a problem unless it starts to get over 9. After your bad experience try not to get to paranoid about water testing. As long as you have a good filter, plant cover, air (venture, waterfall or pumped) and don't over feed you fish should be ok.
Julie Weeks,
Q. What a lovely website!! I have a problem that I hope you can help me with. I have a new pond with 4 very tiny goldfish. I have an internal pump feeding a fountain, waterfall and external UV fishmate filter. The pond is also planted with marginals and oxygenators. My problem is that although the pH, Ammonia, O2 levels are great I have a high Nitrite reading. I have tried partial water changes using water from a fast flowing river at the bottom of my garden (this water tests no Nitrite) and have added Zeolite to my filter system, all to no avail. My understanding is that Ammonia oxidises to Nitrite, yet there seems to be no Ammonia in the water. Please can you advise me on any ways to reduce the Nitrite level, as I have already lost fish?
A. All new ponds must go through a period of high nitrite, but it should not last for more than a week. Two of the most common reasons for having a high nitrite level is: over feeding and something decomposing in your pond. I would surest you stop feeding your fish for three days then test the water again. Ifnitrite has dropped then reduce the feeding from now on.
Christine Ewart, Isle of Man
Q. How do I avoid emptying the pond using a pondovac?
A. Most pond vacuums have a filter by which you can return the water back to the pond. Otherwise vacuum the water up into a bucket and filter that water before returning to the pond.
Geoff Stallworthy, Ripe, UK
Q. I have a garden pond with a liner. It is covered with mud & the water polluted. How can I clean the water? does it all have to be removed & filtered? if so how is this done without harming the fish?
A. If therefish or wildlifeyour pond & they are ok then the water is not polluted. You should have a pump & filter to remove any fish waste and convert it into harmless clean water. It will have to be on at all timesoutthe feeding season. The time to clean out the pond is in October when the fish have stopped eating but before the water becomes to cold to put your hands in. We have an Associate membership for £6 which gives access to a help line email address and a monthly emailed magazine with additional tips.
Sally Keen, Kent,
Q. My sister has inherited a small concrete pond with her new house. The pond was unused and in fact someone had put a ‘cover’ of plasterboard over it, which had disintegrated into the pond. She cleaned it out thoroughly and even bleached it as she found “thousands” of tiny red worms in the bottom. She thoroughly washed it out several times, filled it with fresh tap water, left it for a couple of weeks, added some water plants and a few days ago put in a couple of small goldfish fish. The pond is approximately 8ft by 3ft by 18in. The water turned very dark, so under advice of her local aquatic centre, she put in a bag of barley straw. Rather than clear the water, this caused a deep pink bloom to develop around the bag and now the whole of the pond has turned deep pink/purple. She can’t see the fish, but there are no signs of them gasping for air, and they aren’t floating on the surface so presumably they are okay. I have had a small ‘natural’ pond in my garden for years, with goldfish, frogs, toads, and all the usual associated pond life. I have had the usual problems with greening, but have never come across anything like my sister describes. Can you throw any light on what the problem may be and what she might do to solve it. She doesn’t want to resort to pumps and filters. I have just spent hours searching for help with this problem, but haven’t come across anything like it. My sister lives in the Wakefield area of the North East of England. They have had a fair amount of dry sunny weather, and the pond is in full sun, although recently they have had some torrential rain.
A. I suggest she takes out a small amount of water, the fish and plants, and puts them in a storage container in the shade. Then empties the old water, refills by spraying the tap water in. Leaves for 24 hours then adds the plants. After a further 24 hrs adds the fish. Try’s to shade at least 1/4 of the ponds surface from the sun. The water will go green or it could go reddish depending on the type of algae. She does not add any products or chemicals, also does not feed the fish very often for a few weeks. Only tops up due to evaporation and no water changes. In other words let it mature naturally.
Filtration & water quality, green water
Anne Reece,
Q. Hello. I hope you can help. I have a small pond (about 400 litres). Mistakenly, I placed a hosta on one of the ledges and as the pump is quite powerful it swirled the soil around the pool and the water became quite murky. I have removed the hosta and have been doing partial water changes for several weeks, but now I have a problem with algae and the water is quite green. This weekend I have finally got rid of all the soil from the bottom of the pond and done a 50 percent water change. I have 2 goldfish in there - one is about 6 years old. Since my mistake with the hosta I have been reading about algae and the causes. I think the problem was nutrients from the soil. Also the pond has no growing plants in now, just some floating weed that I obtain from a nearby pond. It has not got much shade either, although it is not in bright sunlight. I understand that introducing plants into the water will combat the algae, but as it approaching autumn I am concerned that they will just die off. Although I'm not worried too much about the aesthetics of the pond at this stage, my main worry is about the fish and I'm not really sure what to do for the best. Should I treat the algae with a weak dose of a proprietary brand of copper sulphate based treatment - or will the algae just die off naturally as winter approaches? Will it harm the fish? Should I continue to feed the fish? At the minute I'm trying to control the amount of light to the pond by shading it with 3 large umbrellas. I'm also keeping the pump running for 16 hours a day to oxygenate the water. I've read so much stuff about algae and fish that I'm quite confused as to what to do for the best. Could you help with some short-term advice? Come next spring I thought of putting some water lilies in to offer shade and use up some of the nutrients in the water but what's best for the fish in the meantime? I would really appreciate some advice please. Thanks Anne
A. Hi Anne, Algae is common in ponds with no shade. It needs sunlight & nutriments to grow. By introducing new water you have given it more nutriments to feed off. Put a potted plant on the south side, to overhang your pond (replacing the umbrellas). This will give shade and a little cover for your fish. Next spring introduce plants. Don’t treat the water; let nature take its course. If you have a filter it should be on all the time. If you pump is just for air (fountain, Waterfall) It needs to be on in the afternoon and at night at least. Brian
Les Littleton, Romford,
Q. I have recently moved into a new property whereupon I have inherited a fish pond. I haven’t the first idea on pond keeping so; a bit of advice would be greatly appreciated. The pond measures approximately 6' x 3' and contains 9 goldfish. It has a Fluval filter. No plants. My first problem is this. How do you get the pond to look clear? Mine is very green, you can only see the fish when they are nearer the surface.
Secondly. The level of the water keeps going down. This only happens when I have the pump running. As soon as I switch it off, it stays the same level. As I said before, your help would be greatly appreciated.
A. Hi Les. You need plants to take the nitrates out of the water as well as shading from the sun. A water lily, some oxygenating plants and lots of marginal plants. Plus an ultra violate clarifier - 8w should be big enough. Sounds like a leak between the pump and the filter or the filter and the pond. Check all the pipe-work and look for damp areas on the ground as an indicator. Good luck.
Marsha Kay, USA
Q. I have a problem. My pond has green algae over it. What can I treat this with so I don’t harm the fish which comprise carp and cat fish. Also, are there fish that eat algae? I heard that they are very expensive but I can’t seem to find it on the web.
A. Re your question - If the water is green, the best approach is to use an Ultra Violate Steriliser (UV) it runs on electricity but it won't harm the fish and is about the best way of destroying green water. If there is clumps or strands of green algae, that is blanket weed. There's no easy answer for this algae except to keep the bottom of pond and filter free of sludge, put lots of plants in the water and shade up to one third of the waters surface. Large water lilies will take care of the last two points.you are thinking of grass carp, they will eat algae as will most other fish, but they produce waste which in turn encourages blanket weed to grow. Therefore I wouldn’t recommend them.
Trevor, UK,
Q. Hi, I wonder if you can help me. I have a pond approx. 4000 gallons, filtration system is 1 x fishmate 30000 and 2 x hoselock ecomax 9000 with 2 x hoselock 1500 titan pumps. This system keeps the water reasonable clear but we suffer from a white froth on the surface of the pond which is produced by the filter outlets which bubble constantly regardless of where the filter outlet is. Have you any idea of what could be causing this and how I should deal with it. Thank you.
A. Because the water is rich with oxygen where the waterfall is, a form of live bacteria grows. Similar to the foam that comes ashore after a storm at sea. There are several products on the market (foam away, No foam) all are harmless to fish and plants. Try discharging the water below the pond's surface. This should reduce the air intake. Finally check out pond skimmers. I use one just for this sort of reason; it is also useful if you have tree blossom problems. Bye for now
Kim Shaw, UK,
Q. how to deal with blanket weed and what causes it
A. Hi Kim Blanket weed is caused through nutrients in the water, which the sun encourages lower life forms to grow. Algae being one of the lowest (blanket weed and green water). Partly shade the pond with plants or shrubs, grow fast growing marginal plants such as watercress or mimulus. Remove blanket weed by raking it out or putting a stick in and twisting it around. Make sure there isn't too much debris on the bottom of your pond. No easy cure, If I had one I'd be a rich man.
Darrel Callanan, Wigan, Lancs.,
Q. Hello, I recently lost a lot of water from my pond. On investigation I found the bio-filter was blocked and water was escaping out of the top. After clearing this I changed my pump (better pump from a previous pond) but am having a lot of trouble with the pump filter keep getting blocked and so starving the supply of water. Is there any way I can cure this problem because at present I am cleaning the foam filter every 30 mins or so.
A. Hi Darrel. How big is your pond (gallons/lts)? What is it stocked with and how many? Size of pump (gals/lts)?
Q. Hello, Not sure of the size in gallons/litres. The pond itself is about 5' by 5' and about 2' deep. I have 2 koi (12") 2 ghost koi (5") 4 4" goldfish. pump= 300 galls per hour. thanks for the reply, hope to hear from you soon. Darrel.
A. Hi Darrel. Your pond is 300 gallons approx. As koi are messy feeders, they produce more waste than other fish. Therefore you will need a larger filter. I would have a filter with brushes first, then something like flowcore & foam. Bye for now, Brian.
David Veloz, Cardiff,
Q. Hi, hope you can help me with a problem I have with my pond. I have a pond of about 350 gals in Cardiff, with several Koi, shubunkins, comets and gold fish in, all successfully have lasted there first winter. The problem is the green water (algae). I have had the pump on through the filter with the UV light on, new lamp bought this year, for about two weeks and still cannot clear the water. The water quality is ok with a PH of 8,Ammonia of 0, Nitrite of 0 and Nitrate reading 25, I have been feeding them, but only small amounts that is consumed within 5 minutes. I am now using Interpet Green Away to clear the pond, it has been suggested to me that I need to switch off the UV lamp for a couple of days for the chemicals to work, but cannot find any mention of this in the Green Away information sheet. It seems strange as the lamp is supposed to clear the water, but I am being told to switch the lamp off even though only for two days. Have you any advice on how to progress? Thanks for any advice you may offer from a enthusiastic pond keeper, but very inexperienced and learning all the time....
A. It is a slandered procedure to turn the UV off when treating a pond, as it can have an effect on some medications. Regarding using Greenaway: I would leave the UV on as it is not a medication. Are you suffering from alga, or is there just suspended matter in the water? If the water is green then it is alga.
All ponds go green in the spring. When the plants get going next month they will take the nitrates that the alga needs. Green water is good for fish as long as it is short lived.
Q. Thanks for your reply, I have kept the lamp on and now seems to be clearing, certainly the two small lilies I have are sprouting well. Now it seems that I do have suspended matter in the pond which I thought the filter would clear via the pump. Do I need to do anything else to clear this, when I can see the bottom I intend to siphon out the silt form the bottom, but need to be able to see first where I am siphoning...
A. In the Pond Club we use a product called Aquaplanton. It not only helps to settle suspended matter, but digests silt. For more info in this product, do a search for it on the web. It works for us.
John Challis, Eastbourne,
Q. Can you recommend someone who cleans ponds? I have a small pond that needs a cleaning out and the pump restarting etc. Obviously prepared to pay the going rate. Live in Willingdon. Any suggestions very welcome.
A. Eastbourne Pond Club have a pond vac available to members, ideal for sucking up material from the bottom of ponds
John Horn, UK,
Q. I have a pond 10ft x 5ft which holds 17 fish. It has been established for 18 months. Two days ago I emptied and cleaned the pond because it was very dirty although the water was clear there was a lot of soil and leaves etc which needed to be removed. I refilled the pond using a tap safe water treatment to the instructions. Since doing this the water has become cloudy and milky in appearance. Is there anything I can do to help the situation the fish seem O. K. at the moment.
A. Hi John. You don't need to empty your pond just because it is dirty. It will do more harm than good, as it takes several years for pond water to fully mature. You have a pump and filter to remove sediment (soil) and a net will remove leaves. There are several sludge clearing products on the market. Back to your question - I would contact the manufactures to see if this is normal or if they have heard of this before.
Bye for now, Brian.
Connie, UK,
Q. I was just in your site reading on algae.Were can I get this stuff called ultra violet sterlizer? I would really like to try it because my pond is very bad with algae.
A. An ultra violet sterilizer is not stuff it is a special light unit that connects to the mains electricity. You can get it from most aquatic shops or garden centres that sell fish etc. They cost from £40 to £ 150 depending on your pond size. The unit has to be fitted to the water pipe to your filter.
David, Cardiff,
Q. I got your email address from your website http://www.gardenpondclub.co.uk/, I live in Cardiff and built myself a 6 X4.5 X 3 ft pond last year and have a few fish in it. For the last month I am having extreme trouble controlling my water quality. After talking to my local "World of water" dealer, I have managed to control my Ammonia and Nitrite by restarting the biological filter using BioStart, but my Nitrate level is high and I have lost one Koi and another is very stressed (when still, tail higher than the head). How can I reduce my Nitrate, or is this not the problem… any advice would be immensely welcome...
A. Nitrate is not as harmful as ammonia or nitrite & is controlled by lots of plants. I.e. watercress, mimulus, not too many oxygenates though. Re the ammonia problem - Is your filter big enough? Is the water going through too fast? Water needs to have dwell time in a filter to allow bacteria to grow. Don't clean your filter unless it starts to block up. Don't change your pond water, just top it up. Are you providing shade?
Teresa, Durham,
Q. My fish are not eating and they are round the waterfall a lot, they are not gasping for air. I have a mixture of fish - Big Koi Carp also Gold fish - Pond size in litres 8000
A. From what you have told me - it sounds like lack of air. Fish will gasp if they have a gill problem. Try to agitate the water more or fit an air pump.
Chris, UK,
Q. I have a pond containing koi which holds approximately six hundred gallons. I have a green genie 3000 filter a 25 watt UV, and a fishmate 2000 pump. The problem is green water, and endless blanket weed. I have been told that the water could be pumped through the UV too quickly to have any effect. So I have slowed the flow down. But this makes no difference. When we have a few days of no, or little sun the pond does clear to a depth of about a foot (The pond is three and a half feet deep at its deepest point.) But once there are a couple of very sunny days, my pond looks more like green pea soup. Please advise.
A. Your pond of 600 gallons is a bit too small for koi unless you only keep small koi. Koi produce a lot of waste (ammonia). You need a good filter system that in turn will increase nitrate levels in the water, which causes green water or blanket weed. The "CURE"(hopefully): Reduce feeding, increase plants into the water, reduce sunlight on water's surface, and don’t change water just top up. Keep the water going slowly through the filter (dwell time).
Elizabeth, UK,
Q. I have just been reading your web site with great interest and hope maybe you could just help me with my problem. Without having any experience whatsoever, last year I decided I would like a fish pond. My friend who has had a pond for some time now, said she would 'keep me right', so the pond was dug and completed and in went 10 goldfish. Although small (approx 80"long x 44"wide, 20"deep I thought it was wonderful. A Triden Otter 1250 pump (larger than needed) plus a Green Genie filter were purchased and all was well, apart from the pump filter is always, always clogged up with algae, so much so, that after 2 or 3 days the UV filter is literally only trickling out and so it goes on and on. I have added Algorem to the water, bought barley straw packs and still there is no improvement. I have also talked to Bradshaws who supplied the pump and filter but unfortunately the don't have the answer to my problem. The water appears to be crystal clear on re-entry into the pond, but I have to say, there does seem to be a covering of algae to both the sides and bottom of the pond. Perhaps with your vast knowledge, you may have come across this problem before, so its fingers crossed that you may be able to suggest something to rectify this very annoying problem. By the way the fish appear to be extremely happy (I hope)
A. As your pond water is not green, it sounds as if you are suffering with blanket weed. This is like long stringy green cotton wool. There is no easy cure, even chemicals aren't always successful. To improve the situation I suggest you cut back on the feeding by half, try shading part of the waters surface and remove as much of the BW by hand or by putting a stick in and twisting it around.
Q. Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my email. My friend who I mentioned in my first email to you says its definitely not blanket week (she has this problem herself). This afternoon, after returning from shopping the filter has stopped working again (not even the proverbial trickle!) and due solely to the filter on the pump being clogged and I mean clogged. I also think the water is turning greener by the day. It has been suggested that I change the UV bulb in the Green Genie but having only purchased it last year, I have to say, I thought it would have lasted longer than this, especially as it was turned off during the winter. So as they only cost a few pounds I am thinking about giving it a go. Do you think the pump and Green Genie are up to the job, so to speak or should I be looking to purchase something bigger and better? According to the Bradshaws catalogue, the green genie filter had won some award for crystal clear water and of course me being a 'novice' I thought they wouldn't have dared make a statement like that, if it wasn't true. However, I'll plod on and try not to lose heart or indeed give up as it does make a very attractive feature at the bottom of the garden, especially at dusk when the lights come on. Thank you so much for taking the time to advise me, it is very much appreciated.
A. It sounds like your pre filter to your pump which is being blocked? Raise the pump off the bottom of the pond and sit it on a house brick so that the pump sits 3 to 4 inches off the bottom of the pond. Buy a pre strainer foam block to go over the inlet to your pump. This is a block of foam about 6" square. You will not need to clean the foam block so often and it will stop the pump from blocking so often.
Patricia, UK,
Q. hello I have just found your page and hope you can help me. we have quite a large pond which for the last two years has been virtually trouble free. this year though it is very murky and has a pinky brown sort of scum. the fish seem fine. I have tested the water .the ph seems ok as do the nitrate levels but the ammonia test did not match anything on the colour chart hope you can advise
A. Is your pond water being agitated. I mean with a filter return, fountain, stream or air bubbles? If not it might be a form of blue- green algae - which can be harmful. If your pond water is moving, then it might be a form of plant plankton, which is ok and will go in time. Some green algae's can be a brownish colour. Re the ammonia test - there should be no readings for ammonia at this time of the year. If there is there is something wrong with your filter (to small, needs cleaning).
Ron, UK,
Q. I have a garden pond around 4500 litres. It has been fully running for around 2 weeks now with a green genie 12000 filter and a maximus submerged pump which also run a fountain. I have started the dechlorinater and the Bio filter start. There are a few goldfish and a couple of koi. For the first two weeks I have had the UV light off as there was no green water and I wanted to colonise the filter. Having checked the filter there is no colonisation as yet. The weather has been extremely hot here and all of a sudden the water is starting to look slightly green. The pond liner has what looks like a thin coating of green something. I put a small tench in the pond from another pond a few days ago and it has died. The other fish seem fine. I have decided that I must turn the UV on now and have slowed the flow rate to give it more time under the light. Should the water be crystal clear and can I expect the filter//pump to crystal it as the manufacturers say?? Any ideas on why the tench died and the others seem OK, water quality too good for tench? I have the top of the pond paved and have used G4 sealer across the cement but not the stone. The problems seem to have occurred when the first rainfall has started. Should the pond liner be really clean (no green).
A. No pond water is crystal clear at this time of the year. The green layer on your liner is algae building up and is normal. Re your dead tench - did you make sure the water properties were the same in both ponds? I.E. pH, temperature, nitrite & ammonia levels. If they were the same in both ponds it could have been the shock of being moved that killed your fish.
Nigel, UK,
Q. Hi, when cleaning my filter this week I noticed a lot of small red worms in the mesh, I was wondering if they are anything that I should be worried about.
A. Not at all – red worms are beneficial to breaking down the harmful material in the filter.
Sheleen, Southampton,
Q. May I first congratulate you on the very best site of this genre that I have come across ~ and I have searched through many trying to find some answers to questions. Although your site holds much information, I cannot find the answer to some questions, which I'm hoping you'll now be able to help me with? I first built a pond about eight years ago just for general wildlife. Four years ago my husband and I enlarged the pond and I bought several koi (Israeli ~ varying colours) over a period of days from a stockist I trust completely. The fish grew rapidly, and I discovered their enjoyment of eating many pond plants to my cost! ha ha. Two years ago, we decided that the pond needed a little 'sorting' with steeper sides so that the local cats wouldn't be so curious. Once again, luck was on our side and nothing seems wrong ~ the fish are growing well ~ and the three goldfish we added multiplied to over thirty in number! I may even have three little koi that I didn't buy swimming around. The frogs are still in abundance along with quite a lot of other insects that enjoy my pond as much as I do. As you may well have guessed by now, much of what my husband and I have done, with regards to the pond and the koi, was guesswork and our success has been down to luck only (as well as healthy fish to start off with). My enthusiasm for the pond and my fish has rubbed off on some friends, and many goldfish have been usurped into their newly-built ponds to grow and multiply. Due to this growing number of 'pond enthusiasts', I have been taking a few notes about my own pond and fish. This is where my queries come from (finally!). We have a 'weed' that grows around the edges and bottom of the pond ~ I call it 'mermaids hair' as that is what my mum-in-law called it too. I have to rip a lot of it up every few months, to keep it from becoming too overgrown. Can you tell me what it is, and whether I should let it grow in the pond? (the frogs seem to like it a lot). It covers everything ~ pipes, stones, and causes blockages daily in the pump which have to be sorted. (we have a pump and filter separate system to keep the pond as clean as possible).
A. Re your koi with no dorsal fin - no problem for the fish. I will have adapted to the change almost immediately. The only way a fin can be affected is either physical and you would have noticed the tear, or if there was a disease called fin rot in your pond (the fins gradually get eaten away over several weeks) it is a form of fungal infection and will affect several fins and often several fish. It might be your fish was born without a fin - not unusual. She sounds to be pregnant if she is swimming slightly lop-sided.
Anne Cross,
Q1. In the last two days, my pond has developed a bright green, almost emerald, type of algae. Also there is an oily substance on the surface of the water. I have not added anything to the pond, it is just as it is normally. Can you please throw any light on this and give me some advice please
Q2. Many thanks for your comments on the state of the water. I have noted your advice and it could be decaying water lilies as we have a few plants on the pond. Also I have the same oily green on top of the water butt which I noticed today. Does the UVs take any nutrients out of the water and does it harm wildlife?
A1. The Bright green is alga and the best way to clear it is with a UVs (Ultra Violet steriliser). Of coerce you must have a filter and pump. Otherwise there chemicals out there that will do the job. Re the oily look on the surface of your water - If a heron has been in your pond it leaves an oil residue in the water. This comes from its legs and attracts fish. Decaying water lilies also give out oil normally as the leaves turn yellow/brown.
A2. Re UV: NO to both questions. Most of our Club members useand I haven't herd any complaints yet - except when their bulb expires and they go back to green water. The UV bulbs usually need replacing after 1 year as they loose their effectiveness over time.
Luke,
Q. We have had some trouble with our ponds, and took advice from this man , who after finding out from many sources , he turned out to be a con man and with his methods wiped out our two ponds leaving us with 2 gold fish and one tench out of 80 koi goldfish carp tench and roach, so as you can see it hurt a little, any way , after finding out about this man I decided to go with my own instincts and do it my self, now touch wood things seem to have settled down, I have introduced 10 2 to 3 inch carp and 10 1 to 2 inch gold fish, as yet after 2 weeks they are all still alive and looking very well, in fact I'm sure they have grown a little ( could be wish full thinking ), the nitrite level is minimal and ammonia is zero oxygen level is spot on and no chlorine is visible but for some reason my ph has gone odd, I have been told it should be between 7 to 8 but I have noticed over the last 2 days it has risen to 8.5 now like I said its probably easy to sort but with all the problems we have had I am being a bit over sensitive, how do I bring it back down, is it a simple case of a slight water change as our water comes in at 7 to 7.5 or is there a ph adjust kit I can buy?
A. As your filter establishes it produces nitrate and this in turn encourages alga to grow. If your are using a UV it is destroying this alga and as it dies it will raze the pH of your pond water. pH is not a problem unless it starts to get over 9. After your bad experience try not to get to paranoid about water testing. As long as you have a good filter, plant cover, air (venture, waterfall or pumped) and don't over feed you fish should be ok.
Julie Weeks,
Q. What a lovely website!! I have a problem that I hope you can help me with. I have a new pond with 4 very tiny goldfish. I have an internal pump feeding a fountain, waterfall and external UV fishmate filter. The pond is also planted with marginals and oxygenators. My problem is that although the pH, Ammonia, O2 levels are great I have a high Nitrite reading. I have tried partial water changes using water from a fast flowing river at the bottom of my garden (this water tests no Nitrite) and have added Zeolite to my filter system, all to no avail. My understanding is that Ammonia oxidises to Nitrite, yet there seems to be no Ammonia in the water. Please can you advise me on any ways to reduce the Nitrite level, as I have already lost fish?
A. All new ponds must go through a period of high nitrite, but it should not last for more than a week. Two of the most common reasons for having a high nitrite level is: over feeding and something decomposing in your pond. I would surest you stop feeding your fish for three days then test the water again. Ifnitrite has dropped then reduce the feeding from now on.
Christine Ewart, Isle of Man
Q. How do I avoid emptying the pond using a pondovac?
A. Most pond vacuums have a filter by which you can return the water back to the pond. Otherwise vacuum the water up into a bucket and filter that water before returning to the pond.
Geoff Stallworthy, Ripe, UK
Q. I have a garden pond with a liner. It is covered with mud & the water polluted. How can I clean the water? does it all have to be removed & filtered? if so how is this done without harming the fish?
A. If therefish or wildlifeyour pond & they are ok then the water is not polluted. You should have a pump & filter to remove any fish waste and convert it into harmless clean water. It will have to be on at all timesoutthe feeding season. The time to clean out the pond is in October when the fish have stopped eating but before the water becomes to cold to put your hands in. We have an Associate membership for £6 which gives access to a help line email address and a monthly emailed magazine with additional tips.
Sally Keen, Kent,
Q. My sister has inherited a small concrete pond with her new house. The pond was unused and in fact someone had put a ‘cover’ of plasterboard over it, which had disintegrated into the pond. She cleaned it out thoroughly and even bleached it as she found “thousands” of tiny red worms in the bottom. She thoroughly washed it out several times, filled it with fresh tap water, left it for a couple of weeks, added some water plants and a few days ago put in a couple of small goldfish fish. The pond is approximately 8ft by 3ft by 18in. The water turned very dark, so under advice of her local aquatic centre, she put in a bag of barley straw. Rather than clear the water, this caused a deep pink bloom to develop around the bag and now the whole of the pond has turned deep pink/purple. She can’t see the fish, but there are no signs of them gasping for air, and they aren’t floating on the surface so presumably they are okay. I have had a small ‘natural’ pond in my garden for years, with goldfish, frogs, toads, and all the usual associated pond life. I have had the usual problems with greening, but have never come across anything like my sister describes. Can you throw any light on what the problem may be and what she might do to solve it. She doesn’t want to resort to pumps and filters. I have just spent hours searching for help with this problem, but haven’t come across anything like it. My sister lives in the Wakefield area of the North East of England. They have had a fair amount of dry sunny weather, and the pond is in full sun, although recently they have had some torrential rain.
A. I suggest she takes out a small amount of water, the fish and plants, and puts them in a storage container in the shade. Then empties the old water, refills by spraying the tap water in. Leaves for 24 hours then adds the plants. After a further 24 hrs adds the fish. Try’s to shade at least 1/4 of the ponds surface from the sun. The water will go green or it could go reddish depending on the type of algae. She does not add any products or chemicals, also does not feed the fish very often for a few weeks. Only tops up due to evaporation and no water changes. In other words let it mature naturally.
Geri, Devon
Q. Hello, just had a very scary event in our pond. We have just discovered 5 dead Golden Orfe. All have died within the last 24-48 hours. They were about 5 years old and approximately 12-13" . They do not appear to have any obvious infections or injuries. We have other fish in the pond and they seem to be fine at the moment. We are currently testing the water etc., but would be very grateful if you could offer up any ideas or suggestions. We have had the pond over 6 years and have never had anything like this before. We are very worried
A. One of two things will do this, first - lack of oxygen. If the fish died overnight this is usually the cause. The cure is to add an air stone attached to a small air pump or keep the fountain/waterfall running all night.
The other cause is poisoning - Think back to if you have done anything very recently in or around the pond water or the filter, I.e. pruned any plants, cleaned the filter or pond. The cure for this is a or several partial water changes. Change about one third of the water at a time. Good luck, Brian.
Sue Davies, Bournemouth,
Q. Hello, this query is from Sue in Bournemouth, Dorset. I have just found a couple of my large golden orfe floating dead in my pond. This happened last year after some very hot weather, which I am presuming is the reason for them dying. Is there anything I should be doing to try to stop this? Also the pond has a filter and pump with a uv light, holds about 650 gallons and has quite a lot of fish in it all growing fast! There are also 3 Koi who are about 10-12 inches in length the pond, should I be considering reducing the amount of fish? I would rather keep my koi than the comets and goldfish who breed each year. The pond water is very green, despite the uv light and I have tried to buy some clear water products, but would like your advice on the what I should do. Many thanks Sue (fantastic site by the way)
A. Hi Sue. Lack of air is most likely your problem. You need to get a pond air pump, air line and air stones. Piston air pumps are the cheapest but are noisy. Pumps that have diaphragms are quiet but more expensive. 20 litres should be big enough for your pond. Don't delay. It's always the biggest and best fish that go first.
Kimberly McDaniel, Texas USA,
Q. We believe we had a bullfrog around our pond recently. We had a tremendous amount of tadpoles a short time later, which started to attach themselves to the fish. Fish started dying and had no fins left when we fished them out. We cleaned the pond (moving the surviving fish over to our smaller pond) and
then replaced them once the water was adjusted correctly. But we are now losing fish in both ponds, for a total of 8 fish so far. They have all their fins, but their colour is changing as they die. Any help would be
greatly appreciated - we don't want to lose them all!! May be worth mentioning that before this, we have rarely had problems with either of our ponds. Thanks
A. Bullfrog tadpoles are primarily herbivorous, grazing on algae and detritus. The lack of fins on your fins could be due to a bacterial infection called 'fin rot'. It might have been carried from another pond by the bullfrog. When you put all your fish into the one pond, did you increase the filtration or air into that pond?
If the ammonia increased it could have damaged their gills and now they are dying. Colour change is usually due to age or fish which are diseased often change colour, but this is usually a fading/darkening/dulling of the skin rather than an actual colour change. The most common causes are either nutritional deficiencies, so you could try a change of diet, water chemistry such as pH or hardness, or simply genetics. Brian
Stephen Brooks, Manchester,
Q. My girlfriend has an old goldfish that a good few months ago developed a white cover over both it's eyes. The white covering on one eye bulged so much that it seems to have now burst or deflated, although the white 'skin' is still present around the eye. She rang a pet shop who did give her some additive that turned the water a blue colour...but not sure if that is what deflated the eye, or if there is anything else we can do? Steve Brooks, Manchester
A. Hi Steve. Sounds like Carp pox which is similar to a cold sore on us. It is a viral infection that is non transferable and not treatable (like most viruses). Carp pox mainly comes in the colder months and gradually clears as the weather warms. Unless it is very bad (fish will not eat) the fish won't suffer. If the fish is in distress it should be destroyed as it is likely to become affected as the weather cools.
Phil Markworth, Ridderkerk, Netherlands,
Q. I have a pond 3m x 1.5m 4000lts. The water was tested regularly and showing all good. the fish gold and comet and shubunkins. They showed signs of lethargic and staying on the bottom. Before they were active and eating. A skin scrape showed slight skin worm and a medication was put in water. last week I found that a medium sized gold fish was a little weak and slightly on side. I took it in a bucket to be checked but no parasites were found it was suggested that it could be due to bacteria and 25 kg of salt should be added to the water. On my return the fish believed to be pregnant seemed to recover when put back into pond. The water was replaced and new plants added. The fish in question and another medium gold also pregnant has now died. My other fish are staying low and not feeding, and I now noticed black marks appearing on 1 smaller gold and 1 shubunkin I took the gold in a net to look closer and its eyes are also filmed over. Please have U any idea what is happening. Also, I think one or of my fish are suffering from salt burns please can anything be done to help them.
A. Hi Phil , I suggest you remove the salt from the pond by doing several water changes. They are not salt or brackish water fish. By adding the salt it might have altered the pH and will have altered the waters density. These changes will ad to further stress in your fish. Are you sure the fish are pregnant?
If any of the scales are raised it is likely they have dropsy. If there is a bacteria problem, I find Acriflavin very good. Re the staying on the bottom - could they have been frightened by a cat or heron? Have your fish plenty of places to hide such as lots of plants? If not you need to add more, but not in salty water.
Finally, could the black marks be burns from the salt?
Q. Thanks for your reply I think you are right about 3 fish I think have salt burn they are swimming a little but mainly still. The water has been changed and topped up until there is no taste of salt I will replace and add more plants as suggested. The koi and 2 medium gold are starting to come out and swim more also starting to take a little food. The other fish are staying amongst some plants mainly still and not coming out for food. What can be done to get back their trust and will the salt burns heal in time one is sometimes coming and grabbing for insects on surface. Unfortunately I bought the house and took over the fish last August with no experience whatsoever. I have become very attached and interested in the fish and will do anything necessary to make and keep them well. I also read that they can miss the fish that die or go shall I get replacements to help the others become more trusting.
A. Don't add any more fish. Your filter is already under stress with all the water changes etc. Re your other questions time is a good healer.
Graham, Hastings,
Q. is there anybody in the Hastings area who can help me with my koi. my name is graham I’ve been keeping koi for a number of years and had no trouble .but last summer I thought I would make my pond slightly larger which meant I would have to sell and replace all my fish etc. so after doing wot I wanted I started stocking with new fish {after 2 weeks } of running everything to make sure it was all working. its now been 5 months and I had noticed some of my fish flicking I bagged up the fish and of I went to my local fish farm for advise; they told me my fish had flukes fare enough I treated them .everything seemed ok 1 month later my fish seem to have a white film over their body's and I have just lost my first fish it may have been my smallest ,around 6 to 7 inches but I’m very disappointed as I feel I’m failing these beloved pets. to be honest I’ve turned to my local club because I’m fed up with being misled by money grabbing fish farms who are just out for your money. sorry I haven’t told you about my set up. I have a 270 gallon pond its filtered by a large cloverleaf 4 bay gravity fed filter and I also have a built on skimmer fed to a aquamax 1000 then pumped to a black box filter.
A. Did you mean 2,700 gallon pond. What was the treatment you used? Was it safe for temperatures as cold as we have been getting? Sounds as though have Sliminess of the Skin (Costia, trichodina or chilodonella). The fish will become emaciated, usually hang in the water head slightly down. At this time of the year there is only one treatment I would sagest – Potassium Permanganate. It’s an all round treatment for fungal, parasitic and bacteria. It has been used for years and its main use is in the treatment of fungal infections such as athletes foot. You can buy the granules from most chemists for about £1.50 for 35 grams. You need to mix it in a bucket of pond water at a rate of:
7 grams per 1000 gallons. Stir and let it stand for at least 30 minutes (gas off). Stir from time to time Sprinkle onto the waters surface. The water will go a purple colour. Can be repeated after 7 days. If you type Potassium Permanganate into your search engine you will get a lot more info. Finally if your pond is frozen you must not treat.
Q. dear Brian I did once email you about a problem about my pond and fish since then I’ve taken one off my koi to hawkhurst fish farm and had it scraped . they found no parasites at all. I’m now at my wits end I know there’s something wrong I just cant put my finger on it I have been testing the water and found everything ok the problem is a kohaku it seems tome that its skin is peeling off also there are only 2 or 3 fish feeding at moment they are not sitting on the bottom roughly swimming around mid water please help me. PS is there any body in Hastings who can help ?
A.. Eastbourne Pond Club gave out our telephone help number to help with this special case, normally reserved for members
Q.just to let you know everything is now ok . I lost only 2 fish a large mirror carp and a kohaku all other fish feeding really well and also brought home most of my fish from koi farm. many thanks for all your advice graham
Ann, UK,
Q. For the last few days I have been finding dead fish in my pond. Three of them are quite old fish, but the other four are fairly young, i.e. 3 years old maybe. I also fished a dead frog out yesterday. The pond is very well established (over 20 years) and I have not experienced as many deaths since I kept Golden Orfe several years ago and they were all but wiped out overnight due to a torrential thunderstorm. Do you think the adverse weather conditions are playing a part in these fish dying? The water is clear and we have a filter to keep it so (the usual box type with pipes in and out).
A. I have had a lot of queries regarding this problem. I think the main cause of the problem has been the weather. After a hot dry period we had very heavy rain, which would have changed the pH and the temperature of the water in a very short space of time. Pond fish can’t adapt to rapid change, they need to acclimatise slowly.
Bobbie, UK,
Q. Two years ago we were asked if we could 'baby-sit' some koi in our naturally fed pond. Apart from the fact we could no longer see the bottom, no probs, until beginning of 2nd winter and fluctuating temps. Lost about 5 good size fish. Then all seemed to settle. This week we have suddenly lost 2, no obvious signs of anything. I have to confess that I know nothing about koi, or fish generally to be honest.
A. Koi are not suited to naturally fed ponds, as there are too many changing elements in a fed pond. Koi need a stable environment with few fluctuations in water quality, temperature etc. OR maybe somebody has dumped something toxic in the stream.
TRD, Forest Gate, London,
Q. Can you please advise me re the problem with one of my pond goldfish? It is around 6" in length and has up until 3 weeks ago been healthy. I discovered it one morning lying at the bottom of the pond with a frog clinging to the front of its head. I removed the frog and the fish swam off apparently suffering no after effects. However the following day and for all the successive days I have found the fish to be lying at the bottom, on its side , but it comes to the surface to feed before sinking back to resume the position. It appears to rouse itself for a few moments and swims quite quickly before again sinking to lie on its side. There is no visible damage to be seen.
A. Male frogs will cling to anything during mating season and as long as they are not attached to a fish for too long there is relatively little to no damage to the fish. Toads on the other hand secret a toxin through there skin (to ward off predators). Re your fish: what you describe sounds like a swim bladder problem. It might be coincidental or the shock could have caused it. It will some times correct itself as the pond water warms up. There is nothing you can do to help. As long as your fish is feeding and not in obvious distress leave it in the pond.
Fish
Robert Pritchard, UK,
Q. I have a large ghost koi and it has just started to turn slightly pink down both sides. Do you have any idea why please? thank you
A. Hi Robert. Just like goldfish koi can change colour or develop patches of a different colour. Only hi grade Japanese koi are more or less garneted to stay the same throughout. But you have to pay high prices for that. By for now, B
Michael Mcgrath, Bristol,
Q. How many goldfish can be safely stocked in a pond of dimensions 5' 5" x 4' x 20" depth (460 litres)?
A. Hi Michael. Eight is the basic answer. But more if your pond has a good filter and more still if it has plants and an air supply. By for now, B
Robert Pritchard, UK,
Q. I noticed recently that one of my golden orfe has become bent. Do you have any advice please?
A. Hi Robert. It is a known problem that orfe can suddenly get a bent or kinked back. It is usually caused by a sudden shock such as a thunderclap. As they flick to get away they break their back. As their spine is not like ours this is not a problem for them. As long as they can eat and swim they are ok. In my pond I have an orfe with a bad kink just before the tail fin, it has lived like that for 6 years and has over doubled in size.
Bye for now, Brian.
Paul Simpson, Keynsham, Bristol.
Q. I have a 20ft x 6ft x 3ft - 5ft deep pond. It has been established for three years and has a mixture of Sarasas, Shubunkins and Orfe. Over the last week a group of Shununkins have been, aggressively, chasing one of the Sarasas, at some points, seemingly pinning it to the bottom of the pond. I subsequently moved this fish to my other, smaller, pond to check that there was nothing wrong with it; everything seemed fine. However, the following day I noticed that the same group of Shubunkins were chasing a second Sarasa. Is this natural behaviour or do you think it is a problem?
A. Shubunkins can be aggressive and will gang up on slower fish. You will need to separate all the sarasa comets from the shubunkins for about 30 days then try to reintroduce them. Shubunkins can even turn on each other. Once the body size gets bigger than 5 inches this behaviour will usually stop.
Ray, UK,
Q. my sister -in-law says her goldfish is turning black....advice please. thanks Ray.
A. Hi Ray, Goldfish normally get lighter as they get older, but it is not uncommon for them to change to a darker colour.
Alan, East Sussex,
Q. I have a new 20ft x 30 ft 3ft deep clay lined pond in hooe E Sussex. Where is the best source of fish to stock it.
A. One of the biggest aquatic outlets in this area is World of Water. Dikker Aquatics also sell fish.
Steve, UK, September 2004
Q. I have just built a pond 4 weeks ago and stocked with small fish (10 small baby gold fish 5 small golden orfe). my friend wants to give me 2 large golden orfe 12 inches; will they eat the small gold fish?
A. The orfe are too big for your pond. They are top swimmers and need a large surface area. You also need to let your pond and filter mature for about 8 weeks at least before you put in bigger fish. Orfe won't eat fish over 1½” in size.
Terry, UK,
Q. I have noticed one of my goldfish to be extremely bloated. I first became aware of its size about 2 weeks ago. A neighbour of mine has noticed 2 of his fish are in the same condition. All 3 fish appear to be perfectly healthy, swimming well with fins erect etc. However they appear to be much larger than one would expect from fish about to spawn.
A. There are only 3 conditions that would cause this apart from them being pregnant. First is Dropsy - the scales stick up and eyes bulge, second is tumours inside the body and third is swim bladder. The fish keeps floating to the top or sinking. There is no medication to treat any of these conditions. If it is dropsy you need to get rid of the fish as soon as possible as this can spread. Re the other two - they are incurable but as long as the fish aren't suffering it won't affect your other fish.
Teresa, Durham,
Q. My fish are not eating and they are round the waterfall a lot , they are not gasping for air. I have a mixture of fish - Big Koi Carp also Gold fish - Pond size in litres 8000
A. From what you have told me - it sounds like lack of air. Fish will gasp if they have a gill problem. Try to agitate the water more or fit an air pump.
Paulette, UK,
Q. I work at my local hospital. Next to the office in which I work, is a large fish pond. Patients enjoy looking through the window, watching the fish jump up and eat the bread that I feed them. I only feed them once a day but sometimes the works department feed them fish pellets also. Am I harming feeding the fish plain brown bread?
A. No, you are not harming the fish in any way. As long as the fish eat all the bread in a few minutes and nothing is left in the pond to rot, you are giving the right amount. The fish are your best guide, as long as they act is if they are hungry all will be ok. As the weather cools down in the Autumn cut back on the amount you feed and in really cold weather stop all together.
Q.Thank you for taking the time to reply. Yes, they do eat all the bread I put in, as sometimes they are voracious! Its good to know from an expert that I am not doing any harm to the fish or the environment. It’s also a joy of course when visitors and patients alike get pleasure out of watching the fish eating.
Andrew, Ratton, Eastbourne,
Q. One of the two goldfish in my pond looks pretty unwell. (Rest of pond is Elodea about 80% Water is clear and only other inhabitants are snails.) It's tail looks to be eaten away and it has large white patch over top of its body. Have started to treat with a chemical for fungus diseases (Interpret). And have put more water in pond (it is about 4000 litres) Would be sad to see the fish pass away. Would it be best to try and remove it and take it to a shop / vet? Is there anywhere in Eastbourne you could suggest? I live in Ratton
A. Your diagnoses and treatment sounds correct. I would leave your goldfish in the pond and carry on treating as per label. If you remove the fish it will become more stressed than it already is. Don't change the pond water, just top up. I suggest you remove some of your oxygenating plants, 40% is more than enough as by day they produce oxygen BUT by night they adsorb oxygen, starving the fish of it. Try a small lily instead.
Peter, UK,
Q. I would like to find a supplier that stocks high quality sarasa fantail fish, but not orange and white. I am looking for any other colours, deep red and white, purple and white (I think is available) Please give details, alternatively, please suggest supplier!
A. Have you tried the F B A S. Federation of British Aquatic Societies They deal in fish quality
Sheleen, Southampton,
Q. My query is regarding a koi...She (though I have no idea if the koi is a 'she' at all) is white-ish in colour with grey-ish patternation down the middle of her back. I always noticed that she grew quicker than the others and has 'barrelled' somewhat in the past few months. I thought she might be pregnant ~ as she also swam less smoothly than the other koi ~ listing slightly in order to propel herself forward. Her appetite is still good (very good, actually), and she seems in good health. Then today, I finally noticed something I had not seen before ~ I don't think she has a dorsal (?) fin... the fin on the top of the body. Because of her shape and her strange swimming, I don't think she has had this fin for quite a while. All her other fins and her tail are in good shape ~ no ragged bits, and no holding the fins close to her body (as though she may, if she had a parasite infection). Could it be that she has some sort of parasite that is just infecting her dorsal fin... or had it eaten perhaps? Can she survive well without the fin there? All the other koi seem to be fine ~ they all show their top-fins most of the time, if not all the time. I apologise for the long-windedness of this e-mail, but hope you can help with this,
A. The weed you speak of is blanket weed. It will become a problem if you don't keep trimming it back. Put a stick in and twist it around. You can buy chemicals, but I don't use them unless there is no other way. Re your koi with no dorsal fin - no problem for the fish. I will have adapted to the change almost immediately. The only way a fin can be affected is either physical and you would have noticed the tear, or if there was a disease called fin rot in your pond (the fins gradually get eaten away over several weeks) it is a form of fungal infection and will affect several fins and often several fish. It might be your fish was born without a fin - not unusual. She sounds to be pregnant if she is swimming slightly lop-sided.
Marcia, UK,
Q. I have just moved into a new house that has a garden pond. Help I don’t even know where to start! There are no fish but would like to put some in.
I don’t know what I should do first.
A. Don't put any fish in for the time being. Let the pond come back to life after the winter and see what plants you have. Mid Summer is a good time to introduce fish for the first time. You will need a filter & pump for fish. Do not rush only put in 2 or 3 fish to start with and don't feed for the first few days.
In the meantime - Read as much as possible. Aquatic shops are good for advice but at the end of the day they need to sell.
Moyralan, Wales,
Q. When should I stop feeding fish? Please settle an annual argument I have with my wife. We live in Anglesey and winters are always frost free (nearly) and generally mild.
A. Frost or not, the fish’s metabolism slows down in cold water. Use a thermometer to test the pond water. When 10°C or above feed as normal (staple fish food). Between 5°C & 10°C feed brown bread or wheat germ fish food. Below 5°C DON’T feed. If you have turned your filters off for the Winter DON’T feed. Hope this stops any further arguments.
F Pickett,
Q. I have a small (500 gal) pond which has a Weed? Carp about 12 inches long. He shares the pond with about 25 goldfish. He recently acquired what I think is a wound to the top of his head but this appears to be healing. My worry is that he seems to have something attached to his mouth and to my totally inexperienced eye looks like anchor worm orleech. I think it would be almost impossible to catch him without emptying the pond because there is too much vegetation. Can you help me please?
A. He should have two things attached to his mouth, one on either side. they are called barbells and help the fish find foodthe bottom ofwater where they naturally live.
Tony. UK. Lethargic fish.
Q. Hi there, I have a small pond about 200 gallons. I have 6 golden orfe of various sizes. My problem is that just lately they are very lethargic and will not feed. I feed them every day and stand for quite a while to watch but they just won’t feed. I have a good pump and filter system and have tried various things but to no avail. Could you possibly throw any light on this dilemma, because they have not eaten anything now for over a week?
A. Have your fish picked up now that the weather has cooled down?
If so it was the sudden chenge in temprature. If not what are they doing now?
Q. Thank you for your reply. My fish seem to be staying a lot of the time on the bottom, with one or two having a quick look around now and then. Still not feeding though. I put some low protein food in and leave it in their feeding ring for about 10 mins, but I still end up taking it out. The water is crystal clear so no problems there. Should I just wait and see what happens? In the meantime will not feeding be a problem to them, and how long should I leave them without food?
A. If they are staying on the bottom, it looks as if they have been frightened.
To get them up to feed put some overhanging plants at the waters edge (best on south side). Stop using a feeding ring and let the food go where it will. Finally, try putting a little honey on brown bread to tempt them up.
Temporary fish homes
Neil, Eastbourne,
Q. Hello, from a potential new Club Member in desperate need of help! I recently sold my house in Eastbourne, which has a pond and 20 Koi of reasonable size. I'm now going through the process of buying another property locally with a very small pond and will be immediately increasing the size of it or building another once moved in. We have now actually moved out and will not be moving into our new house until the first week of October, however as part of the moving arrangements the buyers of our old house agreed for the fish to remain and to feed them during this 3 month period, and I have been regularly attending to the filters etc as well. All going well but now the problem - the new owners have decided they want the fish to go and will not wait until October!! I've spoken with both World of Water and Glyndley to see if they could help out on a temporary basis (paid or otherwise). They were sympathetic but not really interested. Their only suggestion was to buy a Koi Magazine to investigate a holding tank. Having done that and finding they cost in the region of 4 figures, that's clearly a non-starter. So what can I do? I need to find a home for these Koi for about 3 months or so and I've just about run out of ideas. If you or any of your Members can offer any assistance, help, guidance, or ideas I would be extremely grateful as desperation is closing in fast.
A. Why not make your own? Several of our members including me have done this. It doesn't cost much, is easy to do and all materials can be bought from a builders merchant. What I did when I enlarged my pond (which took 3 months) was to build a holding tank. I used flooring chipboard 8 foot x 2 foot & made a box. No bottom needed. To strengthen it I fitted 2 lengths if 4" x 2" lengthwise to each board. I then lined it with builders plastic sheeting (lay old carpet or similar under). Pumped some pond water into it, to a depth of 15" approx. Put my pond plants & fish in.
Gillian, Bexhill,
Q. Is there a place that will look after fish while you make repairs to the pond only we have got some really big fish and we don’t want to stress them We live in Bexhill-on-Sea and would appreciate it
A. I am afraid the Club only has a few 50 gallon tanks. What I did when I enlarged my pond (which took 3 months) was to build a holding tank. I used flooring chipboard 8 foot x 2 foot & made a box. To strengthen it I fitted 2 lengths if 4" x 2" lengthwise to each board. I then lined it with builders plastic sheeting (lay old carpet or similar under). Pumped some pond water into it, to a depth of 15" approx. Put my pond plants & fish in. This is the best time to do it as the fish don’t need to have any filtering.
Pumps
BFT, UK,
Q. I have an AQUARIUS 1200 Pump and want to connect to a 9mm fitting on a statue. How do I do this? I have 17 fish in the pond and am a keen tropical fish hobbyist; not being mechanically minded, can you help me?
A. There is no problem in reducing the flow of water from your pump, but never reduce the flow into the pomp. You should be able to purchase a (step-down) reducer from most larger aquatic outlets such as World of Water.
Wild & natural ponds
Mary Hardinge, Rowlands Castle,
Q. Dear Pond Club, I hope you can help me with a problem I have with our natural pond, which was created over 15 years ago by the previous owner of our home, a Botanist who taught at Portsmouth University. (we live in a small village between Chichester and Portsmouth). The pond is lovely and my pride and joy. The pond contains 15 golden rod that have never been fed 'fish food' as they are maintained naturally; there are also many frogs and newts. The size of the pond is just over 13x10 and has a bog filled with marsh flower, which is used often by the birds. The pond contains many varieties of water lilies, grasses and oxygenators. Last year to control a small amount of surface floating algae, around the edge of the pond, I used some natural barley pads and repeated this procedure in late February to ensure less algae in the spring. The water became amazingly clear and for the first time ever, I could see the bottom of the pond, which is about 24" deep. However, about a month ago a layer of a dark green (almost an artificial bright green) colour appeared the dark lining of the pond. I decided to ignore it for a while, but today, I noticed a spoonful of what almost appeared to be green ink or watered paint on the surface of one of the water lilies. When I rubbed against the lining of the pond, a green threadlike blob floated into the water. I am sure this must be blanket weed. and I am most concerned because I realise to control blanket weed it is recommended to use barley pads - which are already present at the bottom of the pond! Please could you advise?
A. Hi Mary. You are right. You have the beginnings of blanket weed. It has been caused by clear water. In the past you have had green water that has not allowed enough light or nourishment to allow blanket weed to grow, but because the natural balance has been altered the right conditions are now there for blanket weed. The best natural eradicator of any algae is starvation of light and nutrients. In other words ad more plants or shade. Hope this helps. Brian
Q. Thank you for your very speedy response. I have read the Barley Straw Extract will control blanket weed. Do you recommend Barley Straw Extract in a natural pond? After some research, I found that Water Hyacinths and Water Lettuce both have long fibrous roots system that absorb nutrients directly from the water and for this reason are a great natural way of controlling blanket weed. However, your Natural Pond website says to avoid these two plants. Could you recommend an alternative 'safe plant' that would absorb the extra nutrients from the water? I also read that if you can see your hand 6" below the surface of the water (we can see tops plants 1 foot below surface) then the blanket weed problem is not out of control and is probably a normal amount in a natural pond. I am concerned because of the green weed has formed a thin 'blanket' which has coated the lining of the pond. Do you feel this is a normal amount and should be controlled once the lily pads cover more of the pond, as summer progresses?
A. Taking your questions one at a time: By adding anything to a natural pond changes the natural balance. But as barley straw is a natural product it is only giving nature a little help when needed. Plants that are good for removing nitrates from water are watercress, mimulus, water-mint. Any plant that grows fast is good at absorbing nitrates, but might need to be contained. Both of the plants you mentioned are not suitable for natural ponds - more for ornamental ponds.
Randal,
Q. My Fiancé recently purchased a home with a natural pond in the back yard. The pond is very shallow, as I understand years ago it was much deeper. There is an overabundance of decaying leaves in the pond, which I understand can be beneficial for the habitat. However, I have noticed since last spring there is absolutely no plant life, and no fish in this pond and there is trash and debris scattered about, most of which we have cleaned up over the past year. I really feel the natural habitat of this pond can be cleaned up and enhanced. Do you think pollution can be a contributing factor of the lack of plant life? I am familiar with gardening and familiar with the importance of native plants and being very cautious as to not alter or change the natural ecology of the pond, but again, I feel that this pond can be added to in order to encourage natural wildlife. We contacted the DEM where we live and they told us not to touch anything and that planting within 10 feet of the pond is prohibited. What if planting and cleaning would be beneficial to a pond that may perhaps be deterioration? I guess my question is on suggestion for pursuing ways to find out how any of this can be approached. The land and the wildlife are very important to us and we would love it If I can somehow support this natural wetland area.
A. The DEM (that's 'Department of Environmental Management' right?) says not to touch it, and that planting within ten feet is prohibited - did they give a reason why? I'm just thinking it could either be that the pond is known, or suspected, to be home to a species that is protected by law, or perhaps the pond falls within an area that has a blanket protection on it (a natural wetland area, you said). You did mention in your email that you think the pond used to be deeper, so it may have been managed to some extent at one time. If it is filled with dead leaves, I assume there are trees nearby, and if these trees are very close to the pond, enough to block out sunlight to the pond, that would explain why no plants are growing in it as of course plants need sunlight. A natural pond does best when it gets a mixture of light and shade. But, although you said there are no plants and no fish, you didn't mention bugs and amphibians - even ponds in woodlands, that are full of leaf-litter and contain very little aquatic plant, often contain an abundance of insects and amphibians such as frogs, newts, etc (which come to the pond to spawn in the spring, and do better in a pond were there are no fish). As for pollution being a possible problem, I don't know. Pollution is sometimes a problem near farmland, agricultural land, or where pesticides and other such chemicals are used near the pond, and are washed into the pond by rain. The DEM seems to think that the best way for you to support the natural wetland area is to leave your pond as it is. In light of this, I'm not sure if there is a lot you can do. You may wish to pursue it further (I think I probably would want to as well), I would have thought that creating a habitat in your pond that was fully in-keeping and sensitive to the wetland area you describe would have been acceptable, but I'm not the DEM.
Ken, Florida, US
Q. I recently moved into a home located on a natural pond with a size of approx. 2-3 acres. Today it looks murky & muddy I have not seen it look this way before. Is there such a thing as "pond turn-over"? I am located on Amelia Island in extreme N. Florida. Any help or links to books for pond maint., info etc. in my area will be greatly appreciated!
A. Our club deals with garden fish ponds. Yours must be classed as a lake even by U.S. standards. But I will make a suggestion: If there is a lot of decaying vegetation in the Fall, it will produce gas as it decomposes. Maybe as the gas rises it is causing turbulence in the lower water there by causing the sediment to come to the surface.
Marsha Kay, USA
Q. I guess I forgot to mention--- this would be a small lake 1/4 acre and its in the woods and it is natural creek and spring fed do you know if copper sulphate would harm the fish? I am even willing to not stock it if I can clear it up I could always plant ornamental grass around it and just enjoy it.
A. Water lilies are still a good option. Use something like Alba or Gladstonia, they are both big lilies that will grow in deep water.
Copper sulphate/sulphate is harmful to fish; any copper is harmful to aquatic life.
Denise, Gloucester,
Q. My pond is 12'x8' and is visited by the emperor dragonfly, as a consequence all the tadpoles are eaten, although we get vast amount of frog, toad and newt spawn. Is there any way of controlling the dragonfly? I am trying to keep the pond as natural as possible.
A. The emperor dragonfly is about 3" long and has a wingspan of up to 4", and is the largest, most agile and fastest of all the dragonflies. Emperor dragonflies are usually only found in the south of the England. It likes still water and spends most of its time patrolling its territory. It is shy and easily disturbed at rest. Females lay their eggs in submerged or floating vegetation. To discourage it naturally, I suggest first create a water disturbance, maybe a small pump supplying water to a waterfall this in turn should encourage more birds to your pond and the birds live off flying insects.
Mark,
Q. Would like some advice on what to do about cleaning up a natural pond.How can I get rid of cattails?
A. If I take you question in reverse order - To reduce cattail (reedmace). There is no easy way as the root system can be very deep and if you pond has a clay surround (puddled), you can't just pull it up without destroying the puddling and creating leaks. I think I would cut the plant down as fare asclays surfacethen lay a piece of black liner over the area - like you do with weeds on a flower bed. Make sure you put plenty of bricks on the liner to hold it in place. Try not to let the clay dry out if you drain the pond. Re the cleaning of a natural pond. Once you start to clean a natural pond it ceases to be natural, but of coerce you can reduce the fish and plant life as long as you do it a little at a time otherwise you will upset natures balance.
Pond predators
Hilary Williams,
Q. Hi there, just found the site, and am enjoying working my way around it. I wonder if you could offer some advice please? My 22' long pond has recently attracted the unwelcome attention of a couple of Herons, who visit every morning until I chase them off.The pond is nicely stocked with goldfish, orfe and a small number of Koi, all of which I've grown on over the last ten years. I've put some cord around the pond at approx 12" height, but do you have any more robust / effective / less ugly solutions?
A. You can try stringing thin nylon line in a crisscross pattern about 8ft above your pond. It isinvisible to our eyes, but a heron can see it and will avoid getting its wings caught in it.
Miscellaneous
David C Smith, Wellingborough
Q. Do we hold annual shows?
A. We have an annual pond competition between members, and usually one or two open days for the public.
Peter Lambert, Guildford
Q Just looking for general advice
A We can recommend our Pond tips page or an email from the contacts page for specific queries. For regular advice you need to become a member but we are happy to try to answer 1-2 queries for non-members.
Brian Gardner, Christ Church, New Zealand
Q. I’m keeping comets and white cloud mountain minnows – any ideas of tropical type fish that might survive winters?
A. We were only able to give limited advice without knowing the pond depth and if it was filtered, size etc. If the pond is 4 feet and has 2000 gallons koi can be kept with a filter. If it’s shallower then golden orfe can be kept. Smaller garden ponds can take shubunkins, goldfish if 18 inches deep. If the pond is likely to freeze over an open area is needed for gases to escape. Paradise fish or red shiner may be suitable.
Adrian Spencer, Eastbourne,
Q. Brian, on moving to our new house, we found a small muddy pit in the garden, the previous owners called it a pond !!!I have kept and bred canaries and British birds in the past, so fancied a go at pond building.
My pond is now 4metres long and 2 metres wide and just under 1metre deep, it is built half in the ground and half in brickwork above ground. I currently have two pumps and two filters, one pump is just circulating water at the moment and the other feeds a green genie 24000 with UV and back to the pond via a waterfall. Stocking is a bit of a problem if you do not know reputable breeders or retailers. At the moment I have 6 koi at about 6 inches, 6 grass carp at 4 inches and approximately 15 goldfish. Plant life is a bit dormant at the moment, lily's have died back and hyacinths have turned black. Another problem I am experiencing at the moment, is how to stop condensation forming in the lid of my green genie which causes it to short out. In the instructions it says that it can be buried in the ground, but does not mention insulation, lagging or a second cover. The pond is very much a leisure accessory to me and not a financial venture, although it has cost enough, ask my missus !!!. I am considering joining the pond keeping club, could you e-mail me your thoughts on the above.
A. Hi Adrian You only need to run the pump that is feeding the filter at this time of the year. Turn the other pump off (cut down on the electric bill). Also turn off the Ultra Violate clarifier (UV light); this only needs to be on when you have green water - More savings. Finally, you have enough fish in your pond. Grass carp grow fast and big, up to 30". So some of them will have to go in a couple of years. You can always add a few more goldfish, shubunkins or orfe. But not at this time of the year.
Paul Woolston. Thornhill, Canada. Evaporation
Q. I don't know if you can help me because I am in Canada have a small pond in the garden about 5x3 ft. and about 2 and a half ft. deep. I am running a circulating pump all the time well below the surface.in winter drops sometimes to -15C (about 2F). The usual situation being between 5-10C, but this year is giving way to unusual warm temperature with major fluctuations. I am experiencing what I would call excess evaporation within the period of a few days. Now we have had high winds and low temperatures. I am wondering what is normal evaporation or do I have a leak. I am able top up the pond from an indoor source. I wondered what your thoughts are?
A. If the air is cold but dry and windy, you will get a lot of evaporation. If the conditions are right you can loose up to 1” of water in a 12 hour period.
I suggest you try putting some sort of wind breaker on the prevailing wind side. It could be as simple as wind-netting.
Top up as you would in the Summer by spraying water from a hose.
If you think you have a leak – let the water find its own level making sure any fish don’t suffer. Then see if there is a small split or puncher at the waters surface.
Q. Thanks I did just what you recommended late yesterday, and am crossing my fingers. Paul
Frogs & toads
Steven Henry, New Orleans, USA
Q. I have frogs in my pond following completion 2 weeks later – are they good or bad?
A. The short answer is ‘GOOD’. To have frogs colonising your pond in just 2 weeks means your water quality must be good enough to encourage wildlife. The only frog you need to be wary of is the Bullfrog, as it will destroy all other forms of aquatic wildlife.
Lorraine Turland. UK
Q.went into the garden today and a frog had attached itself to the face of a Koi with it's 'hands' (pushed up to the elbows) imbedded into the eye sockets of the fish, this could either be the frog trying to mate or possibly trying to keep warm (all the other frogs and toads huddle together on the bottom) I did manage to get it off the fish but I will have to wait until the morning to see if the Koi is still alive, and there is a high probability that it has damaged the sight of the fish ... I have allowed frogs and toads into my Koi pond but tomorrow they will find themselves homeless ... because removing the frogs arms from my Koi's eye sockets was worse than childbirth .... in my opinion they do not mix.
I think more pond owners should be aware of the downside to encouraging wildlife if they have expensive fish.
A. It has happened to me in the past. The frog is trying to mate and I know this is a problem. Luckily I have never experienced any long term damage to my fish. Re the childbirth - I'm afraid I haven’t experienced that.
P.S. The frogs are likely to return to where they were born or if yours is the only pond in the area they will make a B line for it.
Pond plants
Robert Ford, Knebworth, UK,
Q. Hello, First of all, I've had your website bookmarked for over a year now and use it as my one stop resource for monthly pond maintenance. So, thanks for such a great and informative resource! Here's my pond query which I hope you can help me with...Over the past two years we have spent around £250 on pond plants.In the first year our plants thrived but in the second year we have noticed that nearly all plants are not doing so well. Lilly leaves are very small, water lettuce are very small, in fact most plant leaves are very small in size. Nothing appears to be dying, just poor growth.We do have very clear water as we run an Oase filter system and I'm wondering if the poor growth is down to a lack of nutrients in our pond. Can you offer any advice for us so that we can get our plants back up to strength? Are there any pond fertilisers etc that you could recommend that wouldn't harm our fish (koi, and mixed others like goldfish, orfes etc). Our pond is approx 2000 gallons and is about 14 months old. I appreciate that it may be a little late in the year to do anything now but I'm already thinking of next Spring.Q&A First of all, many thanks for your reply. > I’ve inserted my comments below in blue…
Hi Robert, First are you using any chemicals or treatments for your fish?
> No, none at all.
If not, have you tested the pond water for nitrate and if so what level is it? The higher the better for plants but not too high for fish.
> No, I haven’t tested the water… I think I need to go buy a testing kit. Any recommendations for a good kit?
Do you do water changes or just top-up when required? The latter being better.
> Just top up when needed.
Don't clean the filter out too often. Only do it when it starts to become blocked and then only one section at a time.
> I don’t think I’ve cleaned my filter this year. Maybe once plunged it (filtoclear).
Nitrate is the end product of a filtration system. Therefore if you have a good filter it shouldremoving all the harmful products and the water leaving it should be high in nitrate, which your plants need. Finally any plants you put into your pond are a food source as fare as fish are concerned, unless they were introduced before the fish were.
> All my plants were introduced before my fish and I must be honest that I haven’t seen any signs of nibbling or fish damage.
Try to stop the fish nibbling on young plants by putting some sort of barrier up. When the plants are mature it can be removed. Your fish will still nibble at the leaves but most plants will be able to cope with this.
Don't plant new plants too deep. > When I planted my plants I even used a ruler to make sure I was exact. J
It's now too late this year to do much planting. > The plants I have are living but not thriving. I’ve wondered about adding something like Flora Boost http://www.arghamvillage.co.uk/products/details/273.html next year but am very wary of adding chemicals unless I have to. The other thing I thought about was the fertiliser stick for the lilies. If you have any advice on adding fertil